Big Bend National Park
The first thing you need to know about BBNP is that it is HUGE! I mean can take 2 hours to drive from one side to the next. So unless you’re staying for a week or staying inside of the park, you need to pick some highlights and go with those.
This will determine much of where you are staying and how to get from one place to another.
Where to Stay.
We chose to stay at the Maverick RV Park located close to Lajitas. This was about 30 minutes to Big Bend National Park. We chose to go early to BBNP and we waited in a line of cars. It moved fairly quickly but we did have to wait. Once inside, we went straight to Santa Elena Canyon to do the hike through the canyon. Parking wasn’t ample so we waited a bit but did eventually get a parking spot. You can stay inside BBNP but you must book those reservations in advance and full hookups are few and far between. We need we wanted to explore more than just BBNP, so we chose to stay somewhere with a few more amenities.
I read about this hike and that the beginning of this hike is a bit sketchy. We had two pre-teens and an infant who was in a carrier and I can absolutely say this was sketchy. There is some climbing at first and it is over jagged rocks. The only thing that made me feel better, there were lots of people doing it.
Once we went through the sketchy area, the hike was very smooth. There was some elevation change but that is only to be expected for the great views you get. You go from the top overlooking the canyon and the Rio Grande to the bottom where you are able to touch the water. We were there over the New Years holiday and I was able to wear leggings and a few shirts. I was completely comfortable. The cool air from the canyon was refreshing as opposed to being in direct sunlight that was warm and almost too hot. Don’t be fooled though, I’ve heard there can be lots of snow that time of year. We were fortunate enough to enjoy some nice weather, so much so, we swam on New Years Day at the RV resort.
Food.
Starlight cafe- line up early. They take two groups throughout the evening. If you don’t make it in to one of those groups, the next day is your only option. The food was good, along with the entertainment. I will say the food was good. Not great. Not bad. Good. You are there for the history of the place and the entertainment.
The Thirsty Goat- we were fortunate enough to get a table on the patio. The views were amazing. The food was amazing. It is a bit pricey but totally worth the views by themselves. Our kids played on the lawn while we enjoyed cocktails, making for a very relaxed evening.
Terlingua Time.
We noticed nothing moved quickly. I mean nothing. When I called Starlight to ask about reservation, they told me they didn’t take reservations but to get in line early because the night before they served almost 100 people……..This is my new favorite place. I love that it is slow and things move as things move. There is no rush. In fact, we found it very isolated. The most people we ever saw in one area was at our RV park. It was lovely. The kids went on a zipline tour and the tour guides told them they call it Terlingua time. They were transplants who shared their stories. They said it was quite the adjustment when they moved but the slower pace of life allows for more enjoyment.
Big Bend State Park
This isn’t like your normal state park. You can drive right through it, without a permit. There isn’t a gate. There is a gift shop that is eerily quiet, where you can get a permit to go park an hike or bike. We wanted to explore the park more but the small amount of traffic we did see, didn’t give us the “go hike and relax vibe.” More the “watch your back” vibe. So we drove through and enjoyed the views.
Our route.
We left from DFW and stayed overnight in San Angelo State Park. San Angelo is a great last stop and has lots of options for RV’s or hotels. It also has a Walmart and H-E-B if you need to get groceries. There isn’t anything in Terlingua in regards to groceries, so stock up now. Many of the staff we met at the resort told us they made a trip about every three months to Midland, TX to stock up on groceries. It is a three hour trip to Midland, so I would recommend getting any last minute items on the way. Heads up, when you get to Alpine, fill up and enjoy those last moments of cell phone service. From Alpine south, cell phone service is limited and there are few places to stop, if any.
One thing people don’t realize, the elevation gain on this trip. Parts of this trip can go over 7,000 feet. Now this might not seem like a lot to those traveling from Colorado, but for a Texan, this was a significant gain. Keep that in mind while pulling a camper. Lots of ups and downs. Take your time and enjoy the view.
On our way home, we drove the entire way back in one day. It wasn’t bad and we were ready to get home as we had extended our visit by an unplanned extra day because we were enjoying the parks so much.
Make sure to pack well and enjoy your stay. Also, if you have a 4th grader, they receive free admission to any National Park for an entire year, so be sure to fill out the form and the Park Ranger will give them a special pass at the gate to BBNP. Happy Camping!
